Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
